Brooke Bessesen

Living in Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsula

Brooke — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 19:07:20 GMT

While the hours in Golfo Dulce are spent looking for wildlife, my time on terra firma is deeply enriched by the people and places. In fact, this entire journey began with a single email from my treasured and respected friend, biologist Mike Boston who owns Osa Aventura. He provides the finest guided rainforest trips on the peninsula.

Together we have made two amazing treks into Corcovado National Park (www.osaaventura.com).

I had heard about the pending tuna farm and knew more reliable data was needed to help guide appropriate decisions. When I was struck with the idea for this study, Mike was the first person I contacted. I laid out my basic plan and asked him, point blank, if he thought I was crazy. Was the project even doable?

Mike responded with this. “Your idea is marvelous!!! I have a [boat] at your disposal.” Along with a page of fantastic and ultimately essential advice, he concluded, “It’s very doable, Brooke! Go for it!”

Suddenly I went from having a concept to having a boat and some ground support in one delightful cyber-synapsis. Jorge works with Mike and, thankfully, was available for hire.

But I still needed funding. So I wrote my dear friend Guido Saborio at Friends of the Osa (www.osaconservation.org).

Guido and I had collaborated on a scientific note, which was due to be published in January. He trusted my abilities. And it was Guido who ferried my project proposal to the appropriate people and helped me secure the required money, permits and logistical support.

I am ever-grateful for these guys—for their utter lack of hesitation—and for being two very beloved friends in this small Costa Rican community. Our study is well underway and already we have garnered some very interesting and valuable data.

Now, with only a couple weeks remaining, I’d like to show you around Puerto Jimenez and share some of the sights that greet me as I go about my daily living.

I’m staying in the FOO office...

...the amenities are simple but adequate.

There is no hot water; a mere pipe from the outdoor hose spicket provides my showers.

After a day in the sun, the cool splash of water is exquisitely refreshing!

Since the houses are open-air, nobody can hide away, close off into private worlds of air-conditioning and television (as so many of us do in the states). The people here still interact, sitting on porches and stoops, chatting and laughing into the evening. It’s summer and school is out. At night I fall asleep to the happy sounds of children, playful giggles, bicycles passing, music tapping its contagious Latin rhythm.

When I wake in the morning, I can hear the house next door starting its showers. Roosters call, crickets and frogs chirp, trucks begin rumbling in the streets.

Everyday Jorge and I walk to the gas station for fuel.

And usually to the panderia (bakery) for sandwiches, where the smell of hot sweet bread wafts into the street.

Then we drive to the pier. Our boat is still running like a champ; however, the Land Rover has been on the fritz for over a week, so we’ve been transporting all our gear to and from the marina, morning and afternoon, by local taxi (trucks with a modified beds for seating and shade).

As a side note, I did leave PJ last weekend for a 4-day tour with my new friend Alberto Robleto, a bright and gentle man who—along with his lovely wife and daughters—runs Aventuras Tropicales, a first-class company for kayak, outrigger and biking trips (www.aventurastropicales.com).

On the third day of our expedition we were greeted by two curious Bottlenose dolphins. I see this species almost everyday for my survey, but it was a special treat to enjoy their company so low and slow on the water.

Arturo (our kayak guide) told me there are only two things a Central American pueblo needs to be a real municipality...

…a church.

… and a soccer field. PJ has both.

Along with a main street that is actually paved… well, sort of.

And a ba-zillion dogs.

This is the supermercado where I do my grocery shopping:

Some of these photos may have you thinking I’m “roughing it”. But I’m not. On the contrary, I feel profoundly satisfied with my living conditions. Sometimes, in the American quest for prosperity and independence, we sacrifice the warmth of family and community. Connecting with others touches the human cord with greater richness than money can buy.

It’s been years—since I was a little girl—that I could walk through a neighborhood and see so many people I know, faces that greet me with smiles and waves.

Everyone here has been incredibly welcoming;

it feels like an enormous family has taken me into its fold.

Of course, I can hardly wait to see Kevin! And the girls—Malki and Holli. Soon, I will be home and plant giant kisses on them all. But I am thankful to have enjoyed the experience of living on the Osa Peninsula , even for a short while and I am sure to miss this place... the wildlife, the community, and my wonderful, wonderful friends who live here.

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Charging Across the Wild Blue

Brooke — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 15:52:09 GMT

Here the water is a capricious beauty, changing colors on a whim like outfits to suit her mood. Blues and greens are favorites, but I have also seen gloomy greys and the softest of pinks. And after every sunset she dons a jet black evening gown sparkling with sequins of bioluminescence. One might guess this mystical image was captured in the quiet tranquility of night—but it is merely a fluke of both light and dolphin.

A unique photo captured during our first day exploring Golfo Dulce; it is a reflection of the water’s magic.

Our boat engine repaired (with epoxy, a small but mighty step above duct tape), I am at last on the water, searching for and documenting marine life in this remote Costa Rican embayment. And I’m excited to share a peek at some of the animals and waterscapes that have already crossed my shutter.

This is a more clear picture of the Pantropical Spotted dolphin (Stenella attennata).

Gregarious family groups are prone to bow-riding and dancing in our wake.

Bottlenose dolphins (Turciops truncates) are residents here.

They tend to be more timid in nature and it is a rare treat to have them approach the boat like this.

Endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches.

The high season for Olive Ridleys has passed and right now we are seeing mostly Chelonias (regionally called Black sea turtles).

This is a Yellow-bellied sea snake (Pelamis platurus).

It's one of the species I’m most interested in.

Golfo Dulce is home to a xanthic phase, too, which is completely and strikingly yellow! I have seen two such snakes drawing Ss on the surface of deep blue water but, so far, I’ve failed to snap a decent photo.

To the northeast, near Piedras Blancas National Park there are remnants of a once-thriving coral reef with tiny

colorful fish still active in the teal water.

This is but one of the many soothing sights that compensate my effort.

I am working hard, endless hours. But, truth told, much of this project has been carried on the shoulders of Jorge.

Jorge, who has stood beside me for every fisherman interview, ready to clear up confusion my poor Spanish might cause… who has solved every mechanical crisis with incredible ingenuity (the delicate epoxy work was genius and the motor is running with good efficiency!)… who every day helps me haul a tremendous amount of gear and gasoline to and from the marina… who deftly captains our craft, managing the logistics of my destination requests… and who can reliably spot a dolphin dorsal from one kilometer over troubling seas.

Above all his capability, Jorge is congenial, an ideal partner for my study.

We are also occasionally joined by Gareth, a field biologist from the states whose parents live here, and who brings good sense, strong muscle and a steady demeanor to the survey.

Generally up at 4:30am , we are on the water before the sun makes her 6am entrance on Stage East.

Every performance is a little different and I could make a series of my morning shots.

Occasionally the day brings a small surprise.

Like a tiny eel squirming strangely at the surface.

Or a smooth deep-water current carrying several Portuguese Man-o-wars

(Physalia physalis), blue stinging tentacles trailing in its drift.

Of course we see gulls.

Along with Brown pelicans…

…and Brown boobies.

I, too, am turning brown (well, everything except my boobies). We spend 6-8 hours per day traversing the gulf, which we’ve divided into four Geographical Areas. By noon , the sun picks at our skin and eyes.

But the sense of freedom we find carving across the wild blue with sea breeze pouring over the bow is one of life’s most perfect sensations.

With 22 days remaining, I still want to photograph Humpback whales and whale sharks. It may happen. After all, the water is lovely and she lures many creatures…

…including hopeful humans (Homo sapien).

Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air… Ralph Waldo Emerson

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Morning Swim in Golfo Dulce, Costa Rica

Brooke — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 15:55:19 GMT

The water is almost perfectly smooth, the wind calm.

I am silent, breathing slowly through my nose, which hovers just above the languid surface. My legs and arms are hidden, swirling in smooth circles as they tread the aqueous space below. From this vantage I am a sea turtle lifting my head from the echoing blue to peer momentarily at the world of imposing gravity. I imagine myself all shell and flipper, completely at ease in the ocean realm.

Nearby a tern is fishing, nonplussed by my presence; after all, I am nothing but a brown spot bobbing in the expanse. The bird comes very close. It sways above me—delicate, slim and white with a split tail—searching. Each time it dives and strikes for food its flow is halted, a quick snap against the water.

I love this place. Here, the Osa Peninsula and Gulfo Dulce wrap together like a vibrant Taiji (yin-yang) symbol of land and water. And I’m thankful to feel the embayment’s sweet coolness against my skin since, even this early in the morning, the January air is hot and sticky.

In 2007 and 2008, I worked as a research assistant for Friends of the Osa (http://www.osaconservation.org/), tagging sea turtles and collecting nesting data on the Pacific side of the Osa Peninsula . Now I’ve returned for a unique pilot study under their auspices.

A projected yellowfin tuna farm at the mouth of Golfo Dulce has sparked an urgent call to action. Since little has been published about the gulf’s ecological vitality, there is an imperative need for more scientific data to bolster conservation initiatives.

So I am here to talk with the people and collect 30 days data from a small boat, documenting marine animals in Golfo Dulce, especially “flagship” conservation species (whales, dolphins, sea turtles, whale sharks and some beautiful yellow xanthic-phase sea snakes). My goal is to garner baseline data about this tropical fiord’s unique biodiversity and build greater awareness concerning the importance of in situ conservation.

A man is suddenly talking on the pier, his voice pours across the bay to where I am swimming. I roll onto my back and sigh contentedly. Floating, ears muffled by water, I fall deaf to his chatter, soaking in my own thoughts.

I ponder the work I’ve been doing this week, interviewing local fishermen. Skin weathered to rich mahogany working the sea aside brothers and friends, these earnest men are skeptical of questioning strangers. Their eyes are often shadows as I approach. Yet I’ve felt the honor of having them warm to me and I’m humbled by their hard-earned knowledge of the gulf and its fauna.

Chilo with his night's catch

They have been generous with information and kind of heart,

and my Spanish improves with every effort to understand their dynamic stories.

Yesterday, two people told me they saw Humpback whales just the day before, four individuals from the northern hemisphere breaching in the gulf. These reports make me itch to get on the water myself and, after a few more interviews, I’ll be ready.

But, like most projects, mine is facing some obstacles—an unexpected and fairly expensive repair is needed on the motor donated for my study.

So my boat sits waiting.

I wait too while we search for a solution, an easier fix or alternative.

Mike, Jorge and Gareth looking for parts in La Palma

A half hour has passed since I paddled out into the water and the sun is throwing light across a spray of clouds that are thin and broken into a pattern of triangles, like white scales on a blue fish. Please, I whisper a tiny prayer skyward, I need a boat with a working motor… and soon.

Twisting upright, I see the white tern is gone. The tide is rising and dark wrinkled water is coming a few hundred yards away. When the tiny ripples reach me along with the breeze that’s pushing them, I close my eyes and sniff the fresh salty air.

Another beautiful morning in Costa Rica . It’s time to start the day. With one more deep breath, I turn toward shore and begin to pull myself, one arm over the other.

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

A Very Special Holli-day

Brooke — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 00:24:45 GMT

Ho! Ho! Ho! I hope everyone is enjoying a fun and festive holiday! This morning Malki helped us celebrate Christmas with her traditional shredding of paper as we opened presents.

And many presents there were, wonderful items from our closest relations and friends.

But this year our family received a unique and unexpected gift…

Meet "Holli".

Holli was hit by a car a few days before Christmas after a rainstorm that caused havoc on streets funneling hundreds of shoppers. When my girlfriend Donna and I saw her frantic little body zigzagging through busy traffic several cars ahead, we immediately shot into rescue mode, cutting lanes to follow the animal into a nearby neighborhood.

Lost and frightened, the little brown dog ran almost a mile until she hit a dead end—a fence framed by two block walls. There, she dove into a stand of wet Oleanders and sat trembling in the mud. Her feet were bloodied. Hot breaths of exhaustion puffed to clouds around her face. Wide eyes held unyielding distrust.

I approached slowly, sideways. Diverting my eyes to avoid direct contact, I mumbled words of encouragement until I could loop a leash around her neck. At last, employing a soft blanket and a good dose of patience, I was able to wrap her cold, shaking frame and carry her to my car.

Luckily she was not badly injured, just a few bumps and bruises, broken nails and scraped toe pads. Yet, with no tags or microchip we could not return her to her family. We posted hopeful notices in every appropriate location but nobody has called.

That evening I brought her home, fed her and slept on the laundry room floor holding her in my arms.

Kevin and Malki opened their hearts, too. They have made Holli feel welcome in our home and she is recovering well.

So for now she is safe and dry and warm, bringing her own mark of sweetness to our home and reminding us of the season’s most important blessings—a soft bed, a full belly and at least one person who holds you dear.

Here’s wishing you all a very special Holli-day!

P.S. Remember, I will be blogging from Costa Rica in January; please join me for the journey.

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Spanish Immersion in Guatemala

Brooke — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 00:15:17 GMT

Today I'm blogging from the beautiful old colonial town of Antigua in Guatemala .

I’m here this week for Spanish immersion classes.

Students learn one-on-one at La Union—I have opted for seven hours of private lessons a day, plus homework. The pace is grueling.

But breaks and evenings set me free to explore this city’s rich Central American culture.

I shop and socialize, wandering cobblestone streets past brightly tinted casas, towering churches and crumbling stone ruins.

And of course I eat. With enticing ghosts of pastries, sizzling vegetables, and street-vendor tortillas haunting every corridor, it’s impossible to abstain from...

...the local feast of flavors.

December is a delightful month to visit Antigua . Decorated for Christmas, Central Park ’s trees are dressed in festive threads of light. Church bells ring with holiday spirit and everyone seems charmed by the promise of the coming weeks.

Last Monday (the 7th) was La Quema del Diablo, "burning of the devil”, a year-end celebration of cleansing.

After cheering Lucifer’s fiery dissolve to a burnt pile of paper and wood, I ate roasted corn-on-the-cob and sipped ponche—a delicious hot Christmas punch—among a sea of happy families. Children wore glowing red horns atop their tiny heads while they tossed festive toys and danced to music that filled the plaza like a satisfying meal.

I was here in Antigua once before, in 2007, when I studied my very first words of Spanish. That trip was for sheer fun. But my current pilgrimage is driven by purpose. In need of more practice, I have returned to recapture lost vocabulary and increase my skills for an incredible new endeavor.

You may recall my blogs from Costa Rica when I was there doing sea turtle work with Friends of the Osa (FOO). Well, this year I’m heading back to collaborate with FOO on a new conservation science research project—a multi-species marine sighting survey in Golfo Dulce. During the months of January and February, I’ll be going out in a small boat to look for certain species of marine wildlife. The overall goal is to collect data that may provide greater understanding of Golfo Dulce’s unique biodiversity.

I expect to document lots of dolphins. (Remember this photo of spotted dolphins I posted last year?)

Maybe a few humpback whales from the northern hemisphere and, with luck, some off-season sea turtles. There’s also a unique yellow-phase sea snake that is said to collect en masse in surface waters at that time of year. Now, doesn’t that sound interesting? But perhaps I’m most excited to see whale sharks, the world’s largest fishes, who find their way to Golfo Dulce for a few months each year. It’s sure to be a true wildlife adventure!

I fly home from Guatemala this Sunday and leave for Costa Rica on December 30th; there’s much to do in the next couple weeks! I will explain more about the project in upcoming blogs and keep you updated as my experience unfolds. But for now I need to get back to my class work here in this fabulous place and practicar mi español.

Hasta luego!

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

A Poem of Thanksgiving

Brooke — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:52:44 GMT

Thanksgiving Day

Today I give thanks for the sun’s warming ray,

her goldenrod light turning night into day.

Feeling earth underfoot, whether mountain or plain,

to see sweeping of clouds, smell the sprinkle of rain.

A tree’s gentle breeze giving swell to my lung,

its fingertip nests raising songs yet unsung.

So thankful am I for my heart full of cheer,

friendships and laugh lines carved deeper each year.

With family beside me I sit down to feast,

and think of life’s glory—each snowflake, each beast.

My thanks for gorillas and whales and bees,

the bounty of life filling jungles and seas.

Today I give thanks in the sun’s warming ray,

just for being alive and the gift of this day.

But soon a full moon will hang soft overhead

then thankful I’ll be for my pillow and bed.

-Brooke Bessesen, November 2009

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Brooke & Friends Video

Brooke — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:07:46 GMT

My treasured friend Tony Subia just surprised me with this 3-minute video that he created using elements from my website:

I first worked with SubiaCreative (www.subiacreative.com) when I was eighteen years old. I soon met Tony and his family—gorgeous wife Ruby, their great kids Patty, Kenny and Tanya (who are close to me in age), and subsequently all the grandchildren who came into the fold one precious birth at a time.

What connects us with certain people for a lifetime? I don’t know.

But the Subias have been in my heart ever since and I love them like family! Together through the years we have watched children grow (little Brittney is a new Phoenix Suns Dancer http://www.ahwatukee.com/articles/suns-7857-phoenix-team.html) ...jobs change ... skin age. We have shared holidays’ joy and tragedies’ tears. We are forever linked.

Tony and I are especially close. He is a trusted friend and father-figure, who I've always turned to for advice during major life decisions, and his insight and support have undoubtedly shaped me.

Professionally, Tony is a marketing genius. For over thirty years he has been an ally to clients trying to share company messages in an ever-changing American culture. Nowadays he focuses his creative mind and savvy business sense on developing websites about beautiful and interesting destinations; he opens windows to the world. He has taken Internet browsers to Sedona, La Jolla and Orlando ...

... and now he’s taken my goofy mug to YouTube!

If your reading this, Tony (and I hope you are), thanks for the super cool video! But most of all, thanks for believing in me.

If you like to travel as I do, here are some of Tony’s top-rated websites:

www.arizona-leisure.com

www.dreamsedona.com

www.dreamlajolla.com

www.orlandomagicalvacation.com

www.dreamflagstaff.com

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Going Green for Greens

Brooke — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:12:54 GMT

Kevin and I are always looking for ways to eat more healthfully, so we recently became members in a CSA called Desert Roots Farm (http://www.desertrootsfarm.com). CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture—members own “shares” in seasonal crops and receive produce direct from the farmer.

Now, every Tuesday, we have a giant brown bag of ultra-fresh, organic veggies delivered right to our door. The cost turned out to be less than we’d pay in the grocery store and, since all the food is locally grown and still plump with right-from-the-ground goodness, the flavors are decidedly yummier!

Of course I like the idea of buying from small traditional farmers but it also feels great to be taking another step for conservation. By supporting a farm that employs organic practices, we help keeps tons of pesticides out of ground water. And since that farm is nearby, we help eliminate tons of CO2 that would be piped into the air from trucks transporting food across country.

There are CSA farms in every state. If you want to eat better—live greener—you might consider joining one. We became members online and the process was quick and simple. Here’s a helpful website to learn more about CSAs and find one nearby: http://www.localharvest.org/csa/.

Actually, one of the very best things about a weekly delivery from Desert Roots is… well, it’s the SURPRISE! I never know what my brown bag will hold and we have discovered some delightful new varieties of vegetables. I never know if I will get a butternut squash or a beautiful eggplant, some bok choy or asian cucumbers—but I do know whatever I unpack will be fresh, seasonal, delicious and, best of all, “green”.

Happy eating!

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

Born Free: A Gecko Story

Brooke — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 02:42:41 GMT

It was heart retching to see a baby so emaciated!

I happened into the garage and, glancing down, discovered a hatchling Western banded gecko (scientifically named Colenyx variegatus) stuck in an empty dog bowl and nearly dead from starvation.

Like other lizards, a banded gecko absorbs the last of the yolk sac inside its egg just before hatching—a bolster of nutrition to hold it over until its first meal. This little guy was days, maybe only hours old when he somehow slipped into the bowl and found the edges too steep for escape. I do not know how long he suffered without food or water before I finally spotted his miniscule frame and stooped in horror.

I could hardly believe he was still alive. Under two inches long, his body was mostly bone, his tail thin as a thread. And the skin along his sides had folded into long yellow stripes from dehydration.

Urgently, I carried the bowl into the kitchen and transported a single drop of life-giving water from my fingertip to a spot just in front of his face.

He immediately smelled the moisture and began lapping up the liquid, eyelids closed in weakness and gratitude.

I covered the bowl to let him recover his senses...

...and within twenty minutes the skin on his thorax had filled out.

My recuperating patient was then set up in a small terrarium with some native plant clippings and a hide box made from butter packaging. Kevin was sweet enough to stop at the pet store to buy pinhead crickets, two of which the gecko gobbled in an instant.

I do not like to keep animals—wild creatures should be allowed to remain wild. Normally I'd just relocate a misplaced critter to a suitable outdoor spot around the house. But this gecko would never survive in such poor condition. A dazed lizard is quick food for wandering predators. Plus he needs energy to chase and catch prey, and a bit of tail fat to sustain him into the chill of winter.

So he stayed with us for a few days. He rested. And ate.

And a week later he appeared in much better shape.

I knew I could not wait any longer to let him go. In fact, with October pulling down on the thermometer, I worried it might already be too late. I wanted to be sure his release offered enough time to stabilize in the environment before his first hibernation.

I contacted a friend (and reptile expert) at the zoo for advice and, looking at my photos, she agreed he showed significant improvement. She encouraged me to send him out as soon as possible, before the Fall temperatures could drop any lower.

So, yesterday I picked a nice area with protective rocks and ground cover in the wash behind our house.

And...

>>>>

I let the gecko go!

He was set free with a full belly and, I hope, the necessary resources to grow into adulthood. Like all releases, it was bitter-sweet for me, simultaneously thrilling and worrisome.

However, I did manage to click one final photo before that banded baby slinked under a rock and disappeared from sight.

And when I compare this picture to the first one, the one of him in the dog bowl—when I see his resilience, his fortitude—I am filled with confidence that he will, indeed, survive.

Farewell my small friend.

God speed.

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen

As Promised...

Brooke — Fri, 25 Sep 2009 21:50:37 GMT

Dad and Marie-Laure have lived on an epic arch of California hillside for coming on thirty years. Their charming little ranch house is filled with wonderful food, books and artwork. The sitting area is held between a baby grand piano and a hospitable hearth—both are perfect for warming chilled bones.

Yes, inside it’s always cozy and comfortable.

Yet perhaps the most alluring aspect of this homestead is the surrounding landscape. Dad and Marie-Laure live in a wildlife wonderland. Their private acreage is bordered by miles of undeveloped parcels. Long grasses trip across rugged canyons, which twist like crumpled paper until they kiss the toes of Mount San Gorgonio, the highest peak in Southern California . Throughout the years, many wild animals have been seen and photographed on the property; Dad and Marie-Laure keep their cameras at the ready. This week they have been kind enough to share some of their favorite images/series. I hope you enjoy...

a bobcat in the wildflowers - only ears at first sight

backlit raven collecting nest material

a young bear next to the house another adult treed by dogs

two fiesty ravens mob a red-tailed hawk

a marsh hawk's "skirt" blows

a male harrier (marsh) hawk in flight

one curious coyote

a sweet little brown towhee, one of the many songbirds that brighten the air

a great-horned owl >

a mule deer leaping off into the distance

Wonderful sights, don't you agree? A giant thanks to my dad for collecting and sizing all the pictures for this special photo blog from the ranch. Gosh, looking at all these awesome animals, I just can't wait to go back over for another visit!

This weblog is written by children's author illustrator Brooke Bessesen